We managed to get our hands on Apple’s new wired keyboard (it really doesn’t have a name since it’s a stock product with new machines), a $50 product that functions much like any other keyboard. The actual design is a repackaging of Apple’s previous keyboard in a sleek, aluminum shell, with a few exceptions. With the lower price tag, it makes the idea of the Moshi Celesta a bit unnecessary.

First, the keys are identical to a MacBook—flat, little travel, and with space in between each key. Second, the Help key has been replaced with “fn”, which functions much like its notebook equivalent—the function keys now have other primary purposes, such as volume, brightness (if your machine supports that), and more. Third, the function keys go up to F19, allowing you to program just a bit more. Finally, our friend, the Apple key is now simply “Command” with the cloverleaf logo—this should end some confusion, and make third-party keyboards match a bit more.

Using the keyboard is simple, plug it in. An extension is provided to use it with towers or other hard-to-reach locations. Unfortunately, the extension can only be used with the keyboard, as the USB port has an extra notch in it. If you have Mac OS X 10.4, update it to 10.4.10 and the keyboard software update to get all the functionality. The keyboard works on other Macs (we tried it on a 10.4.7-equipped iMac) and PCs (Windows XP), but certain keys don’t do their special functions. Also, on PCs, Command becomes the Windows key and Option becomes Alt.

If your computer has USB 2.0, the keyboard will support such devices plugged into the USB ports on each end. However, only on certain computers (new iMacs), will the ports have enough juice to power/charge things like iPods or self-powered hard drives. Furthermore, the USB ports don’t provide much clearance, so don’t expect to use the keyboard with many flash drives.

This keyboard does have some improvements over its “let’s see all the crumbs, dust, hair, and anything else that was near the computer in the last few months” modern art sculpture of a keyboard that it replaced. First, it’s nearly impossible to get the keyboard dirty, except for the surface of the keys (which is easily wiped off). Other than that, it’s a solid aluminum slab with a fixed typing angle. The aforementioned special keys give the function keys extra uses, including brightness (F1, F2), Exposé (F3), Dashboard (F4), iTunes (F7-F9), volume (F10-F12). It’s worth noting that the iTunes controls can also be used on QuickTime, iPhoto, or other applications that support this feature. Eject is still its own key just next to F12. Using the keyboard does take some getting used to, but after about a half hour, it seemed quite natural. In fact, since it it almost flat, you can ditch the wrist rest and stop worrying about carpal tunnel. As we’ve often suggested, try out a keyboard or other input device before you buy it to make sure you like it.

Raving about a keyboard is a bit silly, since it is such a “boring” piece of technology, but it is one of those things you use every day to interact with your computer. If you’re happy with your current keyboard, this might not be one of those knock-your-socks-off purchases, but if it’s time for a new one, Apple-official might be the way to go.

The Celesta is available in two color schemes: all-black with red key labels and LEDs or silver with white keys, dark grey key labels, and blue LEDs. Both feature Mac OS X-specific keys, but work with Windows, Linux, and anything else you could possibly think of. Two USB 2.0 ports are located on the right side for mice, flash drives, or anything else. Along the top edge of the keyboard are indicators for num lock, caps lock, and scroll lock, as well as an illuminated Moshi logo.

The layout is the pretty standard as it seems like a Mac-keys-crammed-on-a-traditional-Windows-layout. Mute is located between the right Option and Control keys, white the volume adjustments and Eject are located below Delete/End/Page Down. The keys themselves are laptop-style, but not like Apple’s idea of spaced-out-Chiclets, but do feature plastic scissors below the keys. Other than that, the keyboard takes no getting used to from a typing standpoint.

Other than the advantage of a more “traditional” design than compared with Apple’s keyboards, the Celesta features a flip-down riser to adjust the angle. The thin, flat design is intended to provide a more ergonomic design without weird layouts or awkward wrist rests. If you have a bigger desk/keyboard drawer, the keyboard can sit further back and not have the riser flipped down. This causes your arms to stay straight and rest on the desk itself. If you have it on the edge of your desk, flip the riser down and your arms stay straight and your palms rest on the 1″ space at the bottom edge of the keyboard. Mix in the scissor-switch keys which require less force and you have a rather comfortable keyboard.

The Celesta is a bit on the pricey side for keyboards, but feels very well-made and is designed to be a bit more of a “high-end” keyboard. It looks great, is packaged much like a product from Apple, and even includes a microfiber dust cover and packaging that is actually worth saving in case you want to pack up your keyboard. The ergonomic design is actually quite nice and just works without having to get used to it. This is similar to the MacAlly IceKey, a similar product that sells for less than half the price.

Although our first unit stopped functioning after about two weeks of use, we received a replacement unit very quickly. After about three months of everyday use with that unit, our only complaints with the Celesta are the lack of USB ports on the left side (but there still are two), and the silver/white version needs to be cleaned periodically. However, that’s pretty standard with most white keyboards. Other than that, if you’re looking for a keyboard that looks good and has a solid feel, the Celesta might be a good choice next to your Mac.

MacAlly’s $30 iLaser looks like any other mouse, except that the red glow coming from the bottom has been toned down a bit. Other than that, the mouse works as you’d expect. Plug in one end to a USB port, load the software if you want to customize the extra programmable buttons, and start using it.

Programmable buttons? Yeah—the iLaser features a total of 5 (left click, right click, scroll wheel click, and two additional buttons next to the scroll wheel. All of the buttons can be programmed, as well as the scroll wheel’s movement. You could make the scroll wheel scroll horizontally in certain applications, or use the up/down buttons to scroll in other directions. The software is not fully polished, unlike Kensington’s offerings, but it works and can be customized on an application-by-application basis.

The iLaser can be used without any of the software loaded and works on Macs with OS 9 up to the current version of OS X and on PCs with Windows 98 or later. Since it is plug-and-play, it will most likely work on Linux, too.

You can have a mouse with a bunch of features, but if it doesn’t work well, it’s useless. Fortunately, the iLaser tracks very well, and after using it for a few weeks, it work with no problems. It’s also comfortable to use and is neutral for left- and right-handed users.

The main advantage of the laser is that it tracks on shiny surfaces, such as glass, various laminated surfaces, and anything else that traditional optical mice have trouble on. It is more precise, although we couldn’t find too many situations where there was a glaring difference, except for on certain surfaces.

For the money, the iLaser is a great choice if you want to try out the next-generation of mouse technology. With a price similar to many optical mice, you get a good-looking mouse with programmable buttons and compatibility with almost anything. We find it to be a solid product that works well.

Some wonder what is the point of a keyboard with the thin, laptop keys. For many who use laptops, it is a bit awkward to make the switch between two computers. Some just like the keyboards on laptops better.

iKeySlim

iKeySlim USB Ports & Power Button

The layout of the iKeySlim is the same as most other keyboards. Like previous MacAlly keyboards, it is apparent that this keyboard could be a Windows keyboard in some places, as there is a space next to the right Control key. Unlike previous keyboards, it is just a plastic space instead of a “dead” key. Above the function keys, there are buttons for mute, volume up/down, and eject. Next to those is a round power button. It won’t turn on your computer, but it will send a power button signal. On the back of the keyboard, there’s two USB ports for connecting mice and other accessories.

The iKeySlim, like most desktop keyboards has feet that allow it to be propped up at an angle. When it is lying flat on a desk, it is almost completely flat. Ergonomically, this is supposed to be better, although there are lots of conflicting opinions about ergonomics.

Unlike the iceKey, the iKeySlim does not require you to install drivers or set up anything special. Simply plug the five foot USB keyboard into a free USB port and you’re ready to go.

One thing that takes some getting used to is that the iKeySlim has a mushier feel than Apple’s keyboards (on both the desktops and the ‘Books), or even MacAlly’s own iceKey. It’s not as bad as some keyboards, but it is worth noting, especially if you are picky.

In summary, if you’re looking for an inexpensive keyboard that matches your Mac, the iKeySlim is a solid choice. Its unique design might require some adjustment for some users, but it is quite a bit better than a lot of other $20 keyboards.

Fortunately, Matias’s execution of the $40 USB 2.0 Keyboard is a bit more elegant. Based on the OS X Keyboard, the USB 2.0 Keyboard adds $10 to the price, a USB 2.0 dock, and a USB 2.0 connector. The price is similar to Apple’s keyboard, but it has some distinct advantages in its layout and other features. The layout is slightly different, with extra keys scattered in more useful locations. Matias also brings the printing of the option-key characters on the keys to this model, a feature found on its siblings.

Matias USB 2.0 Keyboard

USB 2.0 Dock

Option Characters Printed on Keys

Rear USB Ports

USB Connectors

Just like the OS X Keyboard, the USB 2.0 Keyboard uses the rather common rubber dome keyswitches (similar to the switches found on most PC keyboards and Apple’s own current keyboards). The switches provide a good tactile feel without feeling too mushy.

Back to connecting the keyboard—it has two USB connectors on the single cable coming out of the back. What this means is that you have to have two USB ports free on your computer – one for the keyboard itself and one for the USB 2.0 dock located above the F11 key. Fortunately, only the USB 2.0 dock connector needs a USB 2.0 port, so if you have an older computer, you won’t need to tie up all your USB 2.0 ports. Furthermore, both can be used with USB 1.1, but the dock won’t operate as fast.

There are also two USB ports located on the back for low-speed (USB 1.1) devices, just like Apple’s own keyboards and the OS X Keyboard. These are ideal for mice, joysticks, and things like that. The USB 2.0 dock on top is perfect for iPods, digital cameras, flash drives, and card readers. Early rumors said the product was to be called the “ShuffleBoard” since the most obvious use of it would be for iPod shuffles, but it seems like legal issues might have thwarted that, resulting in the somewhat boring name.

The keyboard is a cinch to set up — on any Mac with OS X, it is plug and play. The USB 2.0 Keyboard also works with Windows, although the layout of the Alt and Windows keys is reversed. Matias sells either an all-white Mac-specific one (which has the option-key characters printed on it), or a more generic black version for both Mac and Windows.

The feel of the USB 2.0 Keyboard is much like many of the better PC keyboards. In our tests, the Apple keyboard and Matias’s Tactile Pro still felt slightly more comfortable, but the USB 2.0 Keyboard is still perfectly adequate for typing for long periods of time.

As noted earlier, the USB 2.0 Keyboard has some features which make it unique. On the Mac-specific version, option-key characters are printed directly on the keys, eliminating the need to try to find Key Caps or a similar program. Also include are volume adjustment and optical drive eject keys. A third Control key is located where the Caps Lock key normally is, while Caps Lock has been moved to the right side of the space bar, between the Option and Control keys. An extra Tab key replaces the Clear key on the numeric keypad, perfect for those who do a lot of number crunching. Finally, the symbols commonly used for modifier keys (control, option, shift, etc.) are printed on the keys as well.

A matching mouse is available for an additional $10, although we did not get a chance to try it. Also, our only complaint is that the extra-thick cable coming out of the back of the keyboard is too thick to really snake under it using the grooves, meaning that it can only go out the back-right corner.

Overall, the USB 2.0 Keyboard is a pretty good product. Its layout, while not for everyone, is quite handy for certain tasks, and it’s a pretty comfortable keyboard to type on. Although comparable to Apple’s keyboard, it’s worth a look for its additional features and unique dock.

Griffin Technology has released yet another quality product for your iPod or computer — the AirClick. Taking a relatively old concept, the remote, and putting their own twist on it really makes the AirClick stand out.

AirClick USB

AirClick (Remote Conenctor)

AirClick (Remote Conenctor) + iPod

AirClick (Dock Conenctor)

AirClick (Dock Conenctor) + iPod

The AirClick is available in four versions — one for Third- and Fourth-Generation iPods with a remote connector on top, one for the iPod mini, one for any iPods with a Dock Connector (except the Third Generation), and one for the USB port on any Mac or PC. All priced around $40, they’re quite competitive with many other remotes. What makes this family of remotes special is that they use radio signals instead of infrared for sending signals to the receiver. What this means is that, like cordless mice and keyboards, you don’t need to point it directly at the receiver for it to work.

The remote is the same for all three products and can be used interchangeably. The buttons on the remote are the same for most iPod remotes — play/pause, forward, backward, and volume. There’s also a hold switch to prevent accidental use. On the back of the remote is a quite competent belt clip.

AirClick for iPods

We tested the AirClick designed for full-sized iPods and the iPod photo, although we imagine that the version for the iPod mini would be similar. The remote and receiver match previous products, like DLO’s iDirect. Included in the package is a remote, a receiver that plugs in on the top of the iPod, and a multi-function holder.

Using the remote is fairly straightforward. You plug it in and it works. An LED on the receiver alerts you when buttons are pressed on the remote. The remote works when the iPod’s hold switch is on, just as others do.

The holder is an especially clever accessory. The remote’s belt clip securely locks in place, and the velcro strap can be used to attach it to your arm, a steering wheel, or a bike frame.

What makes an RF remote better than others is its flexibility. You can control your iPod from up to 60 feet away without having a direct line-of-sight. You can have your iPod stashed away in a bag and still control it. The possibilities are limitless.

What is limiting is the AirClick’s use with speaker systems, such as Altec Lansing’s inMotion, or anything that uses the iPod’s line-out signal. Since the line-out signal bypasses the iPod’s internal amplifier and volume controls, the AirClick’s volume controls also don’t work. This is the same situation with other remotes, too, as the line-out signal is intended to be free of adjustments. Of course, this is not a big deal if you are using the iPod with a stereo system that has its own remote.

Also to note is that the AirClick does not allow you to use any other top-mount accessories, as it ties up the remote and headphone connectors on the iPod.

A Word About the Newest AirClick

With the introduction of the iPod nano and the iPod with video, top-mounted accessories were no longer compatible. As a result, Griffin has introduced a new version of the AirClick that utilizes the Dock Connector on any iPod except the nano and Third-Generation models. Unfortunately, it does not allow use of the Dock Connector for anything else, such as a car charger, dockable speaker system, or FM transmitter. We tested one with a Fifth-Generation iPod and it worked flawlessly.

AirClick USB

Just like the AirClick for iPods, the AirClick USB includes a receiver with an LED light and a remote with a belt clip. Also included are a USB extension cable and a driver CD. Since the receiver is slightly bigger than a USB flash drive, the USB cable allows you to use it with the most crowded of situations (such as on many laptops). The receiver also has a hinge to allow you to angle it to receive the best signal.

After installing the software, a small remote icon is placed in OS X’s menu bar. From there, you can pick what program you want the AirClick USB to control (this allows it to work even in the background, rather than detecting what program you’re in). Mac users can control the DVD Player, Keynote, iTunes, PowerPoint, QuickTime Player, radioSHARK, and VLC. Windows users get control over iTunes, Windows Media Player, PowerPoint, and QuickTime Player. Griffin promises support for other applications in future software releases.

No other options are available on the software, but none are really needed. When you press a button in iTunes or the various video programs, an on-screen bezel acknowledges the action. After a very brief time, it fades, just like the volume, eject, and Bluetooth notices in OS X.

Cleverly, the software adjusts the volume control in iTunes. If you exceed the upper or lower limits, the software adjusts the system volume control.

In our tests, everything worked fine, except when we tried to control Griffin’s own radioSHARK — nothing happened. Also the test Mac mini (with Tiger) and iBook G3 (with Panther) refused to stay asleep with the AirClick receiver plugged in. After contacting Griffin’s tech support staff, we were assured that this is only a problem with the firmware in early units.

Loose Ends

On each receiver is a small hole, intended to be pushed with a paperclip or similar object. This allows you to tie a specific remote to a specific receiver, as out of the box, any AirClick remote will work with any AirClick receiver. We really wish Griffin would sell AirClick kits to include an extra receiver (imagine using your AirClick-equipped iPod in the car and then using the same remote with your AirClick-equipped computer at home). Of course, the current product lineup allows you to have a few extra remotes on hand if you choose to buy multiple AirClicks.

Overall, both products represent a tremendous value for anyone who wants to control their iPod or computer through walls or without having to point a remote directly at the receiver. We love Griffin’s peripherals, and the AirClick is no exception.

PilotMouse Optical Pro

PilotMouse Optical Pro (Left Side)

PilotMouse Optical Pro (Right Side)

MouseWorks Buttons (Click for Larger View)

MouseWorks Scrolling (Click for Larger View)

Taking the PilotMouse out of the box, it looks much like any other mouse in the $15-$35 price range—silver and black, two buttons, clickable scroll wheel, ample cord. Also included are two other small buttons located on the left side. This PilotMouse is obviously designed for right-handed users, but shouldn’t be too much trouble for lefties. If not, they should look into the slightly cheaper, but less-equipped PilotMouse Optical.

Another unique twist with this mouse is that if offers rubber surfaces all over for excellent grip-ability. The sides feature a “tread” for your thumb and fingers, and the top buttons feature smooth rubber for your index and middle fingers.

Just like the Expert Mouse, the PilotMouse utilizes Kensington’s highly-acclaimed MouseWorks software. Unfortunately, the version that was installed by the ExpertMouse didn’t recognize the PilotMouse. After a quick update, we were able to change settings, just like any other Kensington product. Also, for what it’s worth, the CD that ships with the mouse offers the latest version. Also, since nothing has changed, I must reiterate what I said about the software in the Expert Mouse review:

Kensington’s software is highly customizable, but also very simple to use, something any Mac user can appreciate. Although I haven’t used previous versions of Kensington’s MouseWorks, I’ve read plenty of praise for it, even for the earliest versions. The current one is no different. After installing the Preference Pane, configuring is a fairly straightforward process. Tabs adorn the top of the window to pick which aspect you want to configure (buttons, scrolling, click speed, and acceleration). From there, you can change various attributes. What is worth noting is that speed settings are based on the Keyboard & Mouse Preference Pane, so they’ll only be as fast as you select on there. I found scrolling to be a bit slow out-of-the-box, but it was fine after turning things up.

Button configuration is on a per-application basis, so you can have as many different configurations as you can think of. This is handy for anyone who uses Photoshop, Final Cut Pro, or even iMovie. This also allows you to set up controls for managing tabs on Safari. Exposé will never be more than a button-press away.

Another cool feature of this mouse is that when the scroll wheel is clicked, the scrolling direction changes from up/down to left/right. If you’d rather not use this, it can be turned off, but is mighty handy, especially since many normal middle-click tasks (like opening a link in a new tab), can be reassigned to one of the side buttons.

The mouse tracks very accurately, and should be fine for anyone looking to do some gaming, graphics work, or just wants a precise mouse. It’s comfortable and fits most hands well.

It should also be noted that the mouse includes a PS/2 to USB adapter so you can use it with an older PC. On Mac OS X, the mouse can be used without the software, but the extra buttons do nothing.

Finally, the PilotMouse features a five-year, transferrable warranty. This is quite impressive, especially since it seems like only some cars have a warranty like this. It feels durable anyway and should provide years of reliable service.